Back in training

Sophie, Bojan and I had a wonderful day hiking in the misty mountains above Sarajevo today. Felt like we were a thousand miles from the city, but actually only 20 minutes in a taxi!

At the trail head is a ramshackle place which a man named Dragan made and lives in. He welcomes visitors in and feeds and waters them. We were the only ones in front of the fire eating way too much cheeses, meat, sour cream, spinach and yummy dumplings today. 

Great training for the Camino on Sunday/ Monday!

Mostar and around

Mostar is the biggest city in Herzogovenia and the scene of bitter fighting in the 1990s. Its famous old bridge and market, not to mention most buildings, were destroyed. Although the trademark bridge and market have been rebuilt many buildings remain as shells or rubble.

Yesterday I was driven around the area and saw an ancient town on the route between Istanbul and Vienna, glorious falls and rivers, and the wealthiest town in the country. Because of a reported vision of Mary, Medugorje is a pilgrimage site. Catholics come from all over the world - and the town makes a fortune out of them. They seemed to have strayed a fair way from their religion's founder's precepts...

Snow in Sarajevo

View from the hostel balcony. Quite out of season... When I arrived we were wearing T shirts! Off to Mostar today 

My favourite cafe in Sarajevo

Walking tour of Sarajevo

The corner on the other bank at the end of th Latin bridge is where Archduke Ferdinand met his assassin.

Over65? Male? Then this is where you hang out! Built by Swiss govt and a great hit with the men.

Sarajevo

Arrived in Sarajevo yesterday and slept 24 hours! Already I am feeling stronger. Wonderful to be with Sophie and Bojan and wander through this beautiful but tragic city.

First you see them beside the river. Second was the moon rising over the old city from their balcony.

Meandering in Madrid

I've had to suspend my Camino as I've caught a bug I can't seem to shake. I spent today in Madrid, mostly cosied up with a good book before flying out tomorrow to Sarajevo to see Sophie and Bojan. This morning I determined to see Picasso at La Reina Sofia - but found the doors closed.... 

I wasn't overly impressed with the Plaza Mayor after all the lively and well inhabited plazas of the towns. It was just a tourist trap. Zoom in to see the naked ladies dancing on its walls!

Las flechas

An endless variety to test and guide us!

Santo Domingo and the chooks

We stayed in a huge albergue (can hold 200+ pilgrims!) in santo Domingo but it was the fine rooster and his harem who woke us this morning. They are bred solely to take turns in the cathedral chook  house (the white section in the first pic). The Saint is supposed to have brought not only 2 of their ancestors back to life but a young man falsely accused of theft. 

Loved that the gaudy backing to the altar was to the side in the cathedral and a simple wooden cross hung behind the round 12th(?) century front. It was carved with words of suffering eg cancer, floods, quakes, fire. A refreshing change to all the bloodied Jesuses (soooo Protestant of me!)

A taste of Spain

I'm pretty addicted to a good paella - and distant snow-capped peaks like these

An angel

This lovely Belgian pilgrim helped me negotiate the Spanish health system. She translated my English to French for the nurse who translated to Spanish for the doctor... Quite a circus!!! Nice rest in my own room at Navarette and a short day of walking ahead.

A stroll in the country

A quiet day through to Logrono and the beginning of the Rioja region, famous for its wines.

Still lots of windmills (eat your heart out Tony Abbott!) dancing on the ridges and a carpet of wildflowers.

Loved this bit of encouragement through the ugly entry to Logrono:

Torres del Rio Iglesia

Church in the round: an intimate 12th century church with superb acoustic ( if only the strict Spanish lady guardian would allow a song!)

Villamayor de Monjardin

Not far today as I fell in with a German vet and we chatted and stopped for cafe con leche rather too often!

Monny is on the left and has donkeys (att Carol!)

Note cat on right of this village's name sign!

More Camino signs...

One sunny day

The view from our Monjardin auberge was pretty special at 7.45 when I set off but Cafe Eduardo (in the middle of nowhere much) was even more welcome 7km later!

Hill top villages

These hilltop villages are very pretty but I do wish they were not on TOP of hills, especially at the end of a walking day...

La Flecha

I'm developing an eagle eye for yellow arrows and shells, and feel quite insecure  if I don't see one for a while!

Sister town for Gilgandra?

Entrance to Villatuerta where I'm staying in style tonight ie single not bunk bed with 6 not 16 others!

World walking...

Passed this creative arrangement of olive trees in company with women from Seoul, Seattle and Cologne...

For the farmers...

My Spanish amigo on the trail this morning told me that canola is very new to Spain. The crops were not doing brilliantly- more stones than plants...

Thought you might like this remedy for rabies.. Just drive rabid stock around this bridge until better- or dead!

Adios Pyrenees

The snow topped Pyrenees disappeared from sight once I'd passed over Alto del Perdonnes. The climb wasn't as hard as I'd feared- am I getting fitter or was the incline less steep than Ibaneta pass???

Windmills line the ridges catching the gales that blow through here. 

Just as well I had my pack on or I might have taken flight over 12th century church Eunate!